A few years ago I bolted a brilliant line across the big roof on Beinn an Lochain, but never got round to trying it. After I returned to the crag on a flying visit with Magnus Midtbø, I was a bit captured by the crag and bolted and climbed several other new lines, cleaned several more of the existing lines, and then got to work on the big roof. It was as much a battle with the terrible summer rain as anything else. But I was delighted with the end result - No Remorse, a really cool 8c. This video shows it off, looking good in even the worst of the July Monsoon.

Thank you so much to all of you who have been pre-ordering Moving the Needle this week. It really means a lot and you’ve helped us so much with the expensive business of publishing a book.

For about 6 months I’ve been working with Magnus Mitdbø on a course for his platform Altitude. My course is on movement technique for climbers and it releases in a few days time. If you’d like to see a free video series from the course, focused on footwork, you can check it out here.

Anyway, Magnus said he wanted to come over to Scotland for a couple of days climbing. Despite a stormy forecast, I was determined as always to climb outside. I also really wanted to get on some new routes. We had a wild day trying some projects in Arrochar. I didn't expect the wind to be quite that strong!

After climbing Hunger, I took a short break. Now time for a new 9a project!

In 2007 I gave up on the idea of climbing Hunger, 9a. Over ten years later, I returned as a better climber and finished the job. But not without a carefully planned and executed preparation.