Posts in training for climbing
How strong am I really?

Maddy and Ollie at Lattice Training recently invited me to their HQ in Chesterfield for their finger strength and endurance testing protocol. It was fun and interesting to see how I compare to their ever growing database of high level climbers for these basic measures of strength and endurance. As you can see in the video, it yielded a couple of surprising results for me and a little food for thought for my general approach to climbing goals in the future.

fingerboard, hangboards, training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtraining for climbing, training, fingerboard, hangboardsComment
Fast recovery from my elbow injury

My annoying tennis elbow improved enough to start bouldering regularly again a month ago. Since then I feel like its stronger every session. A good feeling. In this session I keep on with working through the established problems on my board, building up to starting on the projects. At the end I’m getting close to my Pjs on the fingerboard, which is kind of surprising to me, but great! I also go through some of your questions about training from my last full session vlog episode. If you have more, leave a comment here on my YouTube.

BTW Did you subscribe to my YouTube channel yet? Lots more videos sharing climbing, training, nutrition and nice routes and mountains coming in 2022.

bouldering, Edge hangboards, fingerboard, hangboards, injuries, motivation, nutrition, training for climbing, trainingDave MacLeodtraining, training for climbing, bouldering, injuries, climbing injuries Comments
The ketogenic diet in sport performance - 6 years of experiments and scientific evidence

The ketogenic diet had a large impact on my life and my climbing. Here is a detailed discussion of 6 years of my own experiences with the keto diet for sport performance as a pro rock climber, with references to 150 scientific papers on the performance, health and other effects of the diet. You can find all the references below.

I’ve also published an audio version of the piece on my Patreon page as a thanks to my Patreon supporters. I thought that might be useful for folk to listen to it on the move since it’s a long and detailed piece.

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92. Nilsson, L.M., et al., Low-carbohydrate, high-protein score and mortality in a northern Swedish population-based cohort. Eur J Clin Nutr, 2012. 66(6): p. 694-700. https://www.nature.com/articles/ejcn20129.pdf

93. Johnston, B.C., et al., Comparison of Weight Loss Among Named Diet Programs in Overweight and Obese Adults: A Meta-analysis. JAMA, 2014. 312(9): p. 923-933. https://doi.org/10.1001/jama.2014.10397

94. Buga, A., et al., Extended Ketogenic Diet and Physical Training Intervention in Military Personnel. Military Medicine, 2019. 184(9-10): p. e538-e547. https://dx.doi.org/10.1093/milmed/usz046

95. Chawla, S., et al., The Effect of Low-Fat and Low-Carbohydrate Diets on Weight Loss and Lipid Levels: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Nutrients, 2020. 12(12). https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33317019/

96. Falkenhain, K., et al., Keyto App and Device versus WW App on Weight Loss and Metabolic Risk in Adults with Overweight or Obesity: A Randomized Trial. Obesity, 2021. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34124856/

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99. McKenzie, A.L., et al., Type 2 Diabetes Prevention Focused on Normalization of Glycemia: A Two-Year Pilot Study. Nutrients, 2021. 13(3): p. 749. https://www.mdpi.com/2072-6643/13/3/749

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102. Ludwig, D.S., et al., The carbohydrate-insulin model: a physiological perspective on the obesity pandemic.The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2021. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/nqab270

103. Aronica, L., et al., Examining differences between overweight women and men in 12-month weight loss study comparing healthy low-carbohydrate vs. low-fat diets. International Journal of Obesity, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41366-020-00708-y

104. Lindeberg, S., et al., Age relations of cardiovascular risk factors in a traditional Melanesian society: the Kitava Study. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 1997. 66(4): p. 845-852. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/9322559/

105. Lindeberg, S., et al., Low serum insulin in traditional Pacific Islanders--the Kitava Study. Metabolism, 1999. 48(10): p. 1216-9. https://www.metabolismjournal.com/article/S0026-0495(99)90258-5/pdf

106. Sacks, F.M., et al., Dietary Fats and Cardiovascular Disease: A Presidential Advisory From the American Heart Association. Circulation, 2017. 136(3): p. e1-e23. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28620111/

107. Blasbalg, T.L., et al., Changes in consumption of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids in the United States during the 20th century. Am J Clin Nutr, 2011. 93(5): p. 950-62. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21367944/

108. Alvheim, A.R., et al., Dietary linoleic acid elevates endogenous 2-arachidonoylglycerol and anandamide in Atlantic salmon (Salmo salar L.) and mice, and induces weight gain and inflammation in mice. Br J Nutr, 2013. 109(8): p. 1508-17. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22883314/

109. Alvheim, A.R., et al., Dietary linoleic acid elevates the endocannabinoids 2-AG and anandamide and promotes weight gain in mice fed a low fat diet. Lipids, 2014. 49(1): p. 59-69. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24081493/

110. Desmarchelier, C., et al., Diet-induced obesity in ad libitum-fed mice: food texture overrides the effect of macronutrient composition. British Journal of Nutrition, 2013. 109(8): p. 1518-1527. https://www.cambridge.org/core/article/dietinduced-obesity-in-ad-libitumfed-mice-food-texture-overrides-the-effect-of-macronutrient-composition/725D71275CF7399332CEC8C9C76BE23F

111. Hall, K.D., et al., Ultra-Processed Diets Cause Excess Calorie Intake and Weight Gain: An Inpatient Randomized Controlled Trial of Ad Libitum Food Intake. Cell Metab, 2019. 30(1): p. 67-77.e3. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31105044/

112. Heaton, K.W., et al., Particle size of wheat, maize, and oat test meals: effects on plasma glucose and insulin responses and on the rate of starch digestion in vitro. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 1988. 47(4): p. 675-682. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/47.4.675

113. Juntunen, K.S., et al., Postprandial glucose, insulin, and incretin responses to grain products in healthy subjects. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2002. 75(2): p. 254-262. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/75.2.254

114. Juntunen, K.S., et al., Structural differences between rye and wheat breads but not total fiber content may explain the lower postprandial insulin response to rye bread. The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, 2003. 78(5): p. 957-964. https://doi.org/10.1093/ajcn/78.5.957

115. Sumithran, P., et al., Ketosis and appetite-mediating nutrients and hormones after weight loss. Eur J Clin Nutr, 2013. 67(7): p. 759-64. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23632752

116. Phinney, S.D., et al., The human metabolic response to chronic ketosis without caloric restriction: preservation of submaximal exercise capability with reduced carbohydrate oxidation. Metabolism, 1983. 32(8): p. 769-76. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/6865776/

117. Hill, J.C. and I.S. Millan, Validation of musculoskeletal ultrasound to assess and quantify muscle glycogen content. A novel approach. Phys Sportsmed, 2014. 42(3): p. 45-52. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/25295766/

118. Greene, J., et al., State-of-the-Art Methods for Skeletal Muscle Glycogen Analysis in Athletes - The Need for Novel Non-Invasive Techniques. Biosensors, 2017. 7. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/28241495

119. Hettinga, F.J., A.M. Edwards, and B. Hanley, The Science Behind Competition and Winning in Athletics: Using World-Level Competition Data to Explore Pacing and Tactics. Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, 2019. 1(11). https://www.frontiersin.org/article/10.3389/fspor.2019.00011

120. Burke, L.M., Re-Examining High-Fat Diets for Sports Performance: Did We Call the 'Nail in the Coffin' Too Soon? Sports Med, 2015. 45 Suppl 1(Suppl 1): p. S33-49. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26553488/

121. Stellingwerff, T., et al., Decreased PDH activation and glycogenolysis during exercise following fat adaptation with carbohydrate restoration. American Journal of Physiology - Endocrinology And Metabolism, 2006. 290(2): p. 380-388. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16188909/

122. Peters, S.J., Regulation of PDH activity and isoform expression: diet and exercise. Biochemical Society Transactions, 2003. 31(6): p. 1274-1280. http://www.biochemsoctrans.org/content/ppbiost/31/6/1274.full.pdf

123. Wood, T., Lost Metabolic Machinery During Ketosis? Depends Where You Are Looking. Strength & Conditioning Journal, 2017. 39(5). https://journals.lww.com/nsca-scj/Fulltext/2017/10000/Lost_Metabolic_Machinery_During_Ketosis__Depends.13.aspx

124. Burke, L.M., et al., Low carbohydrate, high fat diet impairs exercise economy and negates the performance benefit from intensified training in elite race walkers. J Physiol, 2017. 595(9): p. 2785-2807. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28012184/

125. Shaw, D.M., et al., Effect of a Ketogenic Diet on Submaximal Exercise Capacity and Efficiency in Runners.Med Sci Sports Exerc, 2019. 51(10): p. 2135-2146. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/31033901/

126. Burke, L.M., et al., Crisis of confidence averted: Impairment of exercise economy and performance in elite race walkers by ketogenic low carbohydrate, high fat (LCHF) diet is reproducible. PLoS One, 2020. 15(6): p. e0234027. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32497061/

127. Burke, L.M. and J.A. Hawley, Swifter, higher, stronger: What’s on the menu? Science, 2018. 362(6416): p. 781. http://science.sciencemag.org/content/362/6416/781.abstract

128. Miller, V.J., et al., A ketogenic diet combined with exercise alters mitochondrial function in human skeletal muscle while improving metabolic health. American Journal of Physiology-Endocrinology and Metabolism, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1152/ajpendo.00305.2020

129. Lane, N., A unifying view of ageing and disease: The double-agent theory. Journal of theoretical biology, 2004. 225: p. 531-40. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14615212/

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131. San-Millán, I. and G.A. Brooks, Assessment of Metabolic Flexibility by Means of Measuring Blood Lactate, Fat, and Carbohydrate Oxidation Responses to Exercise in Professional Endurance Athletes and Less-Fit Individuals.Sports Medicine, 2018. 48(2): p. 467-479. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40279-017-0751-x

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nutrition, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeoddiet, nutrition, ketogenic diet, keto diet Comments
I'm doing some nutrition research

My research questionnaire: https://glasgow-research.onlinesurveys.ac.uk/dietary-patterns-of-rock-climbers THANK YOU so much for your time to participate. Note that the questionnaire will only be live for a short time in July 2020.

In the video I above I discuss some thoughts on my own study of nutrition over the past few years and the research I’m currently doing. To complete the research I need your help and I’m asking climbers over 16 who climb regularly to complete a questionnaire about their diet.

The speech by Austin Bradford Hill I mentioned in the post is here:

HILL, A. B. 1965. THE ENVIRONMENT AND DISEASE: ASSOCIATION OR CAUSATION? Proceedings of the Royal Society of Medicine, 58, 295-300. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14283879/



More information about how to participate in the brief video below:

nutrition, training for climbing, vlogs, researchDave MacLeodnutrition, research, training for climbingComment
How I went from 8b to 9a in 18 months

I plateaued at around 7C+ boulder/8b sport for quite a few years in my twenties. Then I made a jump to 8c and then 9a in a surprisingly short period of time. In this episode I go through what I did. Yes it involved a hangboard! I'm not sure my intervention would have the same effect on most climbers these days, but I will suggest some other equally important training for climbing that should reach the same place.

fingerboard, hangboards, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeod Comments
Fingerboarding for beginners

Many of you are getting to grips with the hangboard for the first time right now. Here is a deep dive on most of the priorities to think about to get the most out of the tool and stay uninjured. My Hangboard: The Edge.

In this video I reference a review of studies comparing high and low loads for strength training. If you would like to read the study, it is here.

Edge hangboards, hangboards, training, training for climbing, fingerboard, beginnersDave MacLeodfingerboard, hangboards, Edge Hangboard, training, training for climbing Comments
Edge Boards back in stock
Vlog 22 thumb.jpg

Its taken a while but we had a big delivery of Edge Hangboards today. Thanks to everyone who waited patiently. UK orders will go out tomorrow.

https://www.davemacleod.com/shop/edge

Over the coming weeks I’ll be discussing my thoughts on hang boarding during the current lockdown situation and the routines I use. They are quite simple really.

Due to the current situation we are only shipping to the UK at the moment. As soon as we can be confident that international post services are running a reliable service we’ll restart international shipping.

Edge hangboards, equipment, hangboards, training, training for climbingDave MacLeodEdge Hangboard, trainingComment
How to warm up for climbing

The warm up for climbing is fairly simple and there's no need to overcomplicate it unless you have poor conditioning or injury. But there are definitely some basics to get right. This episode (Vlog #35) goes through them.

Many of you then asked how I warm up at the crag, especially when there are few options for warming up. In this episode (Vlog 36) I warm up on the crux moves of my 9a project. Just take it step by step!

climbing walls, injuries, training, training for climbing, vlogsDave MacLeodtraining, training for climbing, warm-up, injuriesComment